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Spanish Ham
Behind the totally unappealing appearance of Spanish ham lies one of the countries most valued culinary treasures, a symbol of centuries of history and tradition. To the rest of the world, it is simply one of the richest gourmet delicacies available today.
However, it is difficult to fully appreciate all that Spanish ham has to offer until you understand the intricate process that goes into producing its unique aroma and flavor. Here, we provide everything you need to know to become a connosseiur of one of the Mediterranean´s finest treasures.
Spanish Ham Varieties
With ninety races and more than two-hundred hog varieties, it is important to distinguish the two main races that are used in the production of Spanish hams.
The highest quality hams come from the Iberian blood line, which are descendents of the wild boar. They are produced in the southwestern region of Spain , where they are free to roam the abundant mountain forests, known as ¨dehesas¨ in Spanish. They live off of the acorns (bellota) provided by the cork-oak trees .
Iberian hogs have long legs, pointy snouts, and dark skin and hoofs (giving them the Spanish name ¨Pata Negra¨). This race is defined by its genetic ability to store large fatty deposits that become part of the muscular mass and create the white fat that gives Iberian ham its uncomparable marbalized texture and aroma. It´s worth pointing out that only 5% of the ham produced in Spain is native Iberian ham due to expensive and inconvenient production and feeding methods.
Within the Iberian race, there are three categories to be aware of, each of which is based on the feeding practices utilized:
1) Acorn-fed Ham (Jamón Ibérico de Bellota): Hogs are semi-free to roam for the last four months before being sacrificed. They are fed mostly acorns, which make up up 50% of their total weight.
2) Cereal and Acorn-fed Ham (Jamón Ibérico de Recebo o Media Bellota): Hogs are released in the mountain ranges weighing between 85 and 115 kg., where they are fed acorns and proceed to complete the fattening-up period (the maximum weight for all three categories is 185 kg) living off of authorized cereals.
3) Cereal-fed Ham (Jamón Ibérico de Pienso): More than 30% of their final weight is made up of authorized cereals. Not acord fed.
The second type of Spanish ham, known as White Ham (¨Cerdo Blanco¨), is created with crosses between the Landrade, Duroc, Large White, and White Belgium strains. White pigs are raised in sheds found in the mountains of northwestern Spain, allowed almost no exercise, and are fed natural cereals (¨piensos¨), not the natural acorn-based diet fed to Iberian pigs. They are sacrificed earlier than Iberian pigs, at five or six months. The drying and curing processes occur at high altitudes, producing what is known as Serrano ham (¨serrano¨= from the mountains). These hogs produce hams that are generally leaner and larger than Iberian hams. pink to purplish in color, aromatic, with yellowish-white, glossy fat.
Despite higher production rates due to cost effectiveness and other differences that exist between Iberian and Serrano hams, they is also considered a high quality ham with excellent culinary and nutritional value.
Method of Breeding and Production
The 18-24 month curing processes are almost identical in the various production zones. However, the fact that the drying and aging are allowed to occur naturally means that only Ibérian hams qualify as a completely artisan product.
Before being sacrificed, which usually occurs in the winter season, the hog must rest for a minimum period of 24 hours. This helps to be able to regulate the pH level of the meat. Once the pig has been sacrificed, it is trimmed, cleaned, stacked in a drying shed, and completely covered in sea salts. The low shed temperatures (1-6º C), high humidity levels, and adequate salt penetration allow for dehydration to occur gradually (one day per kilogram) and naturally so that the biochemical transformation of certain substances of the ham, such as the fat and proteins, can take place. This stage of the production process is extremely important because high quality hams should not be salty, but rather sweet in taste. Thus, precision of the climatic conditions and salt distribution are key here.
Once the salting process is completed, the hams are hung to ¨sweat¨ off the excess humidity and water and to allow the fat to redistribute itself among the muscle fibers. The hams are then moved to a cellar for the slow aging period, which usually lasts between ten and twelve months. Shade, silence, and stable tempertures and humidity levels are what allow the ham´s fat to acquire the perfect texture and juiciness that provide its characteristic aroma. By the time this is complete, the hams will have lose approximately 30-35% of their initial weight.
Determining Quality of Spanish Hams
The quality and price of Spanish hams are determined by the following factors:
1) Type of Hog: Iberian hams are the highest quality, and therefore, the most expensive Spanish hams. They make up only 5% of the hams we see on the market today. The majority of the hams produced in Spain are Serrano hams, which are also known for their high quality.
2) The Cut: The hind leg or ¨jamon¨ is larger than the front leg, weighing usually between 6.5 and 7.5 kg. The front leg or shoulder, known in Spanish as ¨paleta,¨ usually weighs between 4.5 and 5.5 kg.
3) Feeding: The method of raising Iberian hogs is slower and more expensive than the cost of the commercial feeds used to breed the white hog. Therefore, Iberian hams fed completely off of acorns (known as ¨Jamón Ibérico de Bellota¨) are considered to be of the highest quality available.
To obtain a ham of the highest quality, it is important to look for those that bear one of the five Denominaciones de Origin seals.
Denominaciones de Origen for Spanish Hams
There are five Spanish regions that have certified Denominaciones de Origen. Each D.O. has a quality control program that is responsable for controlling the production of the hams produced in each region. The hog variety and feeding practices vary depending on the D.O.
Serving Recommendations
Spanish ham should be stored in a cool, dry place. Cover with a towel so that it does not dry out. Refrigerate only if absolutely necessary, and when done, be sure to let ham acclimate for several hours before serving. For optimal aroma and flavor, store and serve at room temperature.
You won´t catch a Spaniard eating ham with a fork. When served as an appetizer, it is most commonly served on a plate in slices that are as thinly cut as possible, accompanied by French bread. Encourage guests to help themselves with their fingers.
Cooking with Spanish ham provides a chef with endless possibilities. When diced and sauteéd, its rich aroma and flavor make unbeatable additions to soups, salads, omelettes, pasta, and vegetable dishes. Let your creativity run wild!
Nutritional Information
Spanish ham is recognized as one of the healthiest parts of the Mediterranean diet. It is rich in iron, magnesium, calcium, phosphorous, vitamins B1, B2, and niacin. 100 grams of ham provides 24% of the recommended daily intake of niacin and 33% of protein, essential for tissue growth and repair. It also contains 50% more protein than fresh meat. The fat in Spanish ham is made up of oleic acid (the ´good´ fat found in olive oil). Oleic acid promotes the production of HDL (the ´good´ cholesterol), while reducing the dangerous cholesterol known as LDL.
100 g. of Spanish ham contains only 70 mg. of cholesterol and 200 Kcal of energy...not bad for something that tastes so sinful.
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